Sunday, March 6, 2011

Trastevere is Rome.

Trastevere is Rome. Words can’t describe the complexity and richness of this rione, maybe the most popular and lively of the eternal city. Trastevere has two faces: calm, relaxing and characteristic during the day, chaotic and fun-loving at night. Its churches, its medieval narrow streets and its nightlife represent a summa of the essence of Rome.
My partner, Natalie, and I Spent time in Trastevere, exploring the city during day and night, talking with locals and visitors has allowed me to get to know this area. It is a beautiful, historically rich, and a lively place to just walk around; and it’s very pleasing to the eye.
The economy in Trastevere is largely based on tourism. The shops, restaurants, bars, famous gelaterias that line the streets of Trastevere attract both locals and tourists. After exploring the area and getting to know the people, we realized that many immigrants work in Trastevere but do not reside in Trastevere. The workers shared this with us; they mentioned that they cannot afford the cost expenses of living in Trastevere; because it has become a very touristic area and hence the rise in expenses.
Trastevere is the XIII rione of Rome, located on the west bank of the Tiber, and south of Vatican City. Trastevere translates literally “beyond the Tiber.” Trastevere is signified by a coat of arms of a golden lion’s head with a red background. This area of Rome was originally built to be a city port where storehouses held goods at the time of Augustus and has now developed into a very desirable quarter. Originally, the area was inhabited in early 500BC by fishermen and immigrants, however nowadays the area is inhabited by trasteveri pupils. Nowadays, Trastevere maintains its character because of its preservation of its narrow cobbled streets lined by medieval houses. At night, both natives and tourists alike roam through its many pubs and restaurants. Within Trastevere John Cabot University, the American Academy in Rome, and the Rome campus of the Thomas More College of Liberal Arts, the Canadian University of Waterloo School of Architecture, and the American Pratt Institute School of Architecture reside therefore serving as a home to an international student body.  The inhabitants of Trastevere, called Trasteverini, developed a culture of their own. They believe to be the only true Romans left in Rome today.
Exploring the cobbled streets and hidden alleys on Rome’s left bank. The medieval church of Santa Maria in Trastevere is one of the oldest and most charming basilicas in Rome. The beautiful church of Santa Maria in Trastevere, probably the first church dedicated to the Virgin Mary. It's facade is all glittering with ancient mosaics. The heart of the district is Piazza di Santa Maria in Trasteverewith its lovely church, a 17th century palazzo and a fountain in the middle which is probably Rome's oldest, having been designed by architects such as Bernini, Fontana and Della Porta. There are still some well-conserved medieval houses. In the Middle Ages Trastevere had narrow, winding, irregular streets; moreover, because of the structures of the front buildings there was no space for carriages to pass. To allow passages the structures of the buildings were modified. Trastevere remained a maze of narrow streets.
Piazza di Santa Maria, located just outside of Basilica di Santa Maria, if crowded during the evening; it serves as a gathering place for nightlife folks in Trastevere. In the center of the piazza is a fountain; constructed in 1892 and designed by Carol Fontana. The fountain was originally constructed with travertine, but was resconstructed with marble. The Piazza di Santa Maria serves as a great place to observe, meet, and converse with native Tastreveri.
Another beautiful place within Trastevere is the Janiculum Hill, one of the few sites in Rome where one can observe a great view of the ancient city. From the peak of the hill; one can make count out the domes, marking the churches, in Rome. The hill is the second tallest hill in Rome; but is not one of the seven original hills of Rome. It was outside of the boundaring of the city that was Rome during antiquity. The Janiculum Hill, remains a place of worship and is home to the Church of San Pietro Monotorio. This is where Saint Peter is believed to have been crucified.
Trastevere is filled with richness everywhere you turn to observe. An open air market located in a square just north of the Piazza di Santa Maria resides in Trastevere. It is very similar to the one in Campo di Fiori; but with one added advantage. It is significantly cheaper. In this market, one can enjoy fresh fruits, vegetables, candies, cheeses, meats, pastas etc. It is a fun and alive place to browse through and find a snack or shop for groceries.
Trastevere also houses Villa Farnesina (northern end of Tratevere): a magnificent suburban residence built in the 16th century for Agostino Chigi, the banker of the popes. The Villa houses paintings by Raphael, Peruzzi and other important artists of the Italian Renaissance.On Sunday mornings, you can visit the 7th Corte dei Vigili in Via dei Salumi, and if you enter the guards' rooms, you will see grafitti on the walls written by Roman soldiers who served the emperors from Septimus Severus to Caracalla, in addition to notations of their guard duty.
It is also important to mention that Tiber Island is is located in the middle of the Tiber River (Il Fiume Tevere) that separates Central Rome and Trastevere. It boasts both a major hospital, called Fatebenefratelli, and a small synagogue that was secretly used in the Second World War when Rome's main synagogue nearby was closed down.
An interesting point of Tratevere, is that it home of the Botanical Gardens. They were established in 1883; housing 3500 various species of plants. It as well as all of Trastevere’s splendors attract tourist. They are truly beautiful and breathe taking. It also, has a “scent-and-touch” garden for those that are visually impaired.
After exploring this beautiful; city within a city, the borders of Trastevere became apparent. It is an area that is inhabited by native pupils who have resided in the area for generations. Immigrants do visit Trastevere; however, they only work and enjoy its beauty – they do not reside. One of the main reasons for such happening is that Trastevere has become a very expensive place to reside in. Further, it seems like the inhabitants have created a sense of community. Locals distinguish themselves from other regions of Rome. They believe that they are the only true Romans remaining in Rome. They call themselves trasteveri. Hence, I can say that they have created a city within a larger city. But, still is welcoming of others.
Residing near Trastevere and being one of the tourists attracted to the area. I find that it is a very beautiful place in Rome. It is quiet and peaceful in the daytime and noisy and party at night. I’d like to conclude with what a local shared with me. Students residing in Trastevere for 3ish months will not be fully integrated into our community. Hence, they hardly influence our community with their perspectives and ideas. This could be a possible reason why Trastevere; is still known for being a city within a city; where “true Romans” reside.

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